WHAT IS NATURAL DYE?

Nature's Palette: The Art of Natural Dyeing

Natural dyeing, the practice of extracting pigments from plants, minerals, and insects and (sometimes) using mordants to fix the colour onto natural fibres, has been an integral part of human history for thousands of years. Palaeolithic people used natural pigments, such as ochre and madder, for painting.

When executed without harmful chemicals, natural dyeing is biodegradable, non-toxic, and non-allergenic, significantly reducing environmental impact compared to synthetic dyeing processes.

Akin to painting, a basic colour palette of red, yellow and blue is essential to create a wide range of hues. Examples of plant-derived colours include madder root (Rubia tinctorum) for pink, orange and red, weld (Reseda luteola) for yellow, and woad (Isatis tinctoria) or indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) for blue.

Woad is native to the UK and is in the Brassica family (cabbages and broccoli), It contains indigotin, the pigment known as indigo.

Different parts of plants - such as roots, leaves, stems, flowers, and seeds - can yield pigment.

From left to right: Woad seedlings, Weld, Madder, St. John’s wort.

Kitchen Waste for natural dye

Kitchen scraps can also be optimised, giving the plant a second use, beyond a food product.

For example, onion skins, pomegranate peels, and avocado stones and skins provide beautiful hues, making natural dyeing accessible and sustainable. Onion skins produce rich golden yellows, pomegranate peels yield soft greens or yellows, and avocado stones create blush pinks.

Animal-derived pigments include Tyrian purple (from snail glands) and cochineal red (from female cochineal insects).

Minerals, such as iron, can also create and modify colour. However, certain minerals like chrome, cobalt and tin can be highly toxic and are avoided by responsible natural dyers.

Micro-organisms can also be used for dyeing.

The Advantages of Natural Dyes

Natural dyes offer several benefits for people and the planet:

• Health:

  Workers and customers are not exposed to harmful chemicals, reducing risks of allergic reactions and other health issues. Plants can have healing properties including anti-microbial properties, and can gently enhance health.

• Environment:

  Natural dyes do not release harmful by-products or toxins into the environment.

• Community:

  The cultivation and processing of dye plants provide local jobs and sustainable income.

• Water:

  Natural dyeing uses less water, and the water can be recycled or composted.

• Multi-purpose Use:

  Dye plants often serve multiple functions, such as food, medicine, or compost, making natural dyeing a zero-waste process.

What Is a Mordant?

A mordant is a substance used to fix dyes onto fibres, improving durability and vibrancy. Common mordants include alum, iron, and tannin (derived from plants like oak galls and sumac). Mordants can also influence the final colour - for example, iron can create deeper, moodier tones, while alum enhances brightness. Traditionally, some mordants like chrome have been used despite their toxicity, but contemporary natural dyeing should prioritise safer alternatives.

At SARAH POLAND, I focus on sustainable mordanting practices that avoid environmental harm and align with my zero-waste philosophy. I make my own mordant in small-batches on a needs basis, ensuring every step of the process is intentional, and waste nothing - no mordant is poured down the drain or onto the land. Regarding wearing the clothing, the mordant is fixed to the cloth fibres, is neutralised and is therefore is insoluble.

Similarly, I treat exhausted dye pots by flocculating the liquid and filtering out any remaining pigment, which is then repurposed for print paste or painting. When I first discovered about flocculating dye pots, I was excited by the idea that any remaining dye could be rescued and reused. It felt like uncovering a hidden treasure - not just creatively but in ensuring nothing is wasted or released into the environment. By focusing on these small but significant steps, contributing to a more responsible and eco-conscious approach to textile and fashion production, I see sustainability not as an add-on but as integral to my craft.

The Harmful Effects of Synthetic Dyes

The industrial revolution fuelled the fashion industry’s demand for cheap, scaleable dyeing methods. This led to the rise of synthetic dyes, which pose serious health and environmental hazards. Workers in dye factories are exposed to carcinogenic chemicals, leading to respiratory diseases, dermatitis, and other health issues. Residual chemicals in clothing can also cause allergic reactions, particularly in children.

Synthetic dyes devastate ecosystems. Toxic chemicals dumped into waterways disrupt photosynthesis and harm aquatic life. Textile production accounts for 20% of global industrial water pollution, with approximately 9 trillion gallons of synthetic dye chemicals released annually. Even advanced filtration systems struggle to remove these pollutants.

What about Low-Impact Dyes and what are they?

Low-impact dyes offer a more sustainable alternative to synthetic dyes, though they are not entirely natural. These dyes, classified as eco-friendly by the Oeko-Tex Standard 100, have a high absorption rate (over 70%), reducing water wastage from rinse water. They also avoid toxic chemicals used in traditional synthetic dyeing.

At SARAH POLAND, the plant material decocted into dye is strained out before adding fibre and composted on our land. I flocculate exhausted dye pots, filtering out remaining pigment for reuse in print paste or painting. While low-impact dyes are not completely free from environmental harm, they represent a step forward in sustainable textile production, and natural dyes take it a step further.

Natural Fibres and Sustainability

Natural dyes bond well with natural fibres, which fall into two categories:

• Cellulose Fibres: Derived from plants, these include linen, cotton, and hemp. Man-made cellulose fibres like bamboo, lyocell, and viscose are chemically processed, with lyocell being more eco-friendly than viscose.

• Protein Fibres: Sourced from animals, such as wool and silk. Peace silk (non-violent silk or Ahimsa silk) offers a humane and sustainable alternative by allowing silkworms to emerge as moths before harvesting the silk.

The Origins of Natural Dyes

Before the creation of synthetic dyes in the mid-1800s, natural dyes were used globally. Evidence of dye use dates back 6,000 years, with geographical location determining available colours. Indigo was highly valued in India, while cochineal red was prized in Central and South America. With the advent of trade routes like the Silk Road, natural dyes became coveted commodities, symbolising wealth and status.

There are many resources on the history of colour, as a starting place I recommend, Victoria Finlay’s Colour: Travels Through the Paintbox and Jenny Balfour Paul’s works, including Indigo: Egyptian Mummies to Blue Jeans, delve into the rich history and cultural significance of pigment and natural dyes.

The rich history of natural dyes continues to inspire my work today. Knowing that artisans valued these colours for centuries, from ancient India to the Americas, creates a deeper connection to the craft.

Images from left. Top: Madder root extract, Stainless steel dye pot, Madder root bath, Madder root dyed fabric.

Bottom: Indigo extract, Coreopsis flowers, Weld dyed fabric, Natural dyed fabric.

SARAH POLAND's Commitment to Sustainable Practices and Waste Processing

At SARAH POLAND, we celebrate the timeless beauty of natural dyeing. As a small, independent brand, I take pride in overseeing every detail—from composting dye plant waste on my own land to conducting wash tests with pH-neutral soap at 30°C. Each stage of the design process is thoughtfully tested, and garments are personally worn to refine their style, comfort, and wearability. This hands-on approach ensures that every piece meets the highest standards of quality, sustainability, and authenticity.

Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes offer a rich spectrum of colours within the same piece of cloth, of varying intensities with one dominant colour. Their unique, holistic palette is akin to the holistic nature of herbal medicine, where no single property is where no single property is isolated or emphasised. This creates garments that subtly shift in appearance depending on the light, producing what I call a subtle shimmer on the fabric - an effect that highlights the depth and character of natural dyeing.

For more on my journey and philosophy, explore here: Why I Natural Dye Clothing. https://www.sarahpoland.com/why-i-natural-dye-clothing

Caring for Naturally Dyed Clothing

Caring for naturally dyed garments is both simple and rewarding. Hand washing at 30°C (also helps to reduce your energy use) with a pH-neutral detergent helps preserve colour, and avoiding prolonged sun exposure reduces fading ie don’t leave your garment lying on the back seat of the car.

When natural dyes do gradually fade, they do so beautifully, adding character to the garment, and over-dyeing is an option which can refresh items and extend their life.

Each piece at SARAH POLAND is created with care, ensuring it is as practical as it is beautiful. When cared for properly, natural-dyed garments can last for years, evolving with a timeless charm.

I’ll be diving deeper into how to care for your natural dyed clothing, product recommendations and more tips to keep your wardrobe vibrant -

Look out for my blog or sign up to the NEWSLETTER for more on natural dyeing.

So… Where can you buy natural dyed clothing? Right here!

At SARAH POLAND, I combine artistry with sustainability in my natural plant dye, art and fashion design studio, nestled in the picturesque landscapes of West Wales, UK.

Every piece is made to order, using organically and regeneratively grown dye plants, locally foraged materials, and GOTS-certified organic dye extracts. This ensures there’s no overproduction while maintaining the highest standards of sustainability and ethics - keeping my process as gentle on the environment as it is on you, the wearer.

The first piece available from my collection is The Ande Bomber, a limited-edition jacket with only 50 pieces created per colour combination. Each jacket is signed and numbered by me, making it a truly unique piece. Available in five stunning and carefully considered colour combinations, these jackets reflect my love for colour (read colour geek) and my dedication to crafting unexpected yet harmonious palettes.

In the design pictured to the right, the corduroy is hand-dyed a soft light blue with indigo, while the ribbing is a rich sloe-berry hue achieved with indigo and madder.